Two plus weeks after the trip and I am still thinking about JTree. Part of it is that photos from other participants are still surfacing. The other part is that I’m a bit dumbfounded. Why? That’s hard to answer. It’s not the first climbing road-trip I’ve been on nor the last. Something about it was different in a way that is difficult to express. It’s helpful that others have tried, but their impressions seem to mirror my own.
I was never certain I would even make it. I hemmed and hawed right up to the week before. I did this for the better part of two months prior. There were various reasons, but in the end I needed to go. It was made more attractive because I had met some of the others on a smaller trip to the valley. That and many of the people who I had acquainted myself with via Twitter were going. There were 20+ participants from as far away as Montreal and Philly. Crazy. If they could travel thousands of miles, what reason could I have for not going 500?
It all started rather modestly from an email between a few, but took on a life of its own. I attribute it to the “Twitter Effect”. An idea is put out in there, 5 commit to it, 20 like it, 100 follow it, and in the end 20 participate. Then we name it JTreetweetup #1. I’m not going to go into the whole twitter thing, and how I only did it out of curiosity, or how I’ve met a bunch of other climbers. I will say, I haven’t been doing it very long and I am honestly developing some real friendships.
Ya, friendships, real life connections, I think that is the essence of this trip for me. Well, there is one other thing but I’ll get to that last. The first thing is friends. If it weren’t for friends I wouldn’t have been able to go. Thank you Katiebeth (@katiebeth)! Here’s a girl went who came to Yosemite to climb her first multi-pitch trad route without ever having met me face to face. Talk about a trusting soul. Besides that, she is wonderfully kind-hearted and warm. Check out her blogs ( Beautiful Moments & Not Fearless), she’s not a bad writer either. It took about one email to arrange a ride with her from Fresno to JTree. Relative to my inner cynic that might be a unique experience. However, I was astonished because everyone I met in JTree exhibited the same grace and goodwill. That could be the beginning and the end of the story, but I found a lot more.
Campfires and friends, photo Darren Lui
I’m a bit of a cynic by nature. I’ve pretty much conceded that humanity is doomed to self-destruction due to selfishness and greed. The friends I’ve made prior to JTree, and those I met in JTree, are proving my cynicism unfounded. I left JTree feeling like I had just met my extended family. Everyone was really warm, friendly, helpful and generous. I wasn’t in camp ten minutes, and Darren who I had never met, was helping me setup my tent in the dark. Tiffany, in her blog said, “The fascinating thing is that when we all showed up to camp, there was no weird ice breaking needed. No weird warm up conversation to ease into environment. It was as if we’d all climbed before together.” I completely agree with the sentiment. In fact, it felt as natural as any trip I have taken with partners I have known for years.
On Friday night we were doing this thing where everyone was answering the same question, a round-robin of sorts. The question that came around was, “What do you want for Christmas?” The night before I had slept very little and was feeling pretty trashed after climbing all day. I really had no answer to the question and tried to joke my way out of it. I don’t think I came across as funny (grumpy me). I did think about it later, and the answer I would have given was, “I don’t want anything.”
That would have been the truth. I really didn’t want anything. Being there in JTree climbing, surrounded by friends, eating, talking, enjoying the eye searing smoke from our campfire, was already as much as I could ask for. And if I had a wish I’d do it all over again. I like to remind myself that life is a gift. There in that moment it was never more apparent. How could I be so greedy as to wish for more? I couldn’t, I was content. For various reasons I’ve lost some connection with my old climbing partners. Grad school also took its toll on other aspects of my social life. The desire to reconnect to friends and fellow climbers only magnified the richness of my experience in that moment. These new acquaintances and friends made it easy to feel connected, welcome, and part of the family. All you’d need is one good “tacklehug” and you’d know what I’m talking about 
I came home from the trip feeling very different from when I left. I know this may sound a bit melodramatic, but it restored my sense of closeness to people. My cynicism lost its edge. It’s hard to articulate, which is why I’m having trouble with this post. I found new friends, reinforced friendships, and left feeling like I was part of something warm and fuzzy.
In everyone’s life, at some time, our inner fire goes out. It is then burst into flame by an encounter with another human being. We should all be thankful for those people who rekindle the inner spirit. ~Albert Schweitzer
That quote couldn’t be more accurate and Its not the first time I’ve eluded to such a sentiment since meeting the twitter crew. After walking away from this writing for a day I realized something. The expectation for this trip was a typical climbing road-trip. Go climbing, hangout with friends, come home. I left with a typical expectation of what was to come. The trouble I’m having is the unexpected nature of it. It wasn’t just another road-trip of climbing, camping, and carousing. It was finding a whole bunch of real people who are about as cool and easy to be with as people (climbers) can be. I’m still not sure how to describe it, and maybe I don’t need to. The impression I’m left with is one I want to keep. Writing it down may only be a hollow attempt to label something ineffable. Screw that, I like the indescribable nature of it. Like a first love or a Sierra sunrise, there are no words to do it justice. I’m gonna leave it that way. To everyone that went, it is an honor to know you. I sincerely hope we see each other again soon.
photo Eileen Descallar Ringwald
Part II
I really wanted to do some climbing when I went to JTree. Well, that was the point of the trip. I made a tick list of about 20 routes to hit. I really didn’t think I’d get all 20 but figured 8-10 wasn’t unreal. My one regret about the trip is not climbing more. I climbed about 4 routes and did some bouldering, not bad. However, what was missed in quantity was made up for in another way.
I’ve been struggling to find my “leader head” since being injured some years ago (About). The grades in JTree are definitely old school grades. A 5.9 route has the potential to pose a problem and anything 5.10 is a guaranteed to be a challenge. I was probably being a bit optimistic with two-thirds of my tick-list 10a or harder. While I didn’t get to most of it, two routes on my list got ticked, “Poodles are People Too” and “Heart and Sole.” Leading these two routes is noteworthy because they represent the negotiation of major mental hurdle.
Located on Hemingway Buttress “Poodles” is rated 10b. I’ve climbed harder stuff, but not in a while and not in JTree. I had warmed up on Feltoneon Physics (5.8) which went smoothly. The day moved slowly and I was run down from travel and lack of sleep. I got pretty chilled at the top of Feltoneon too. By the time I was ready to lead Poodles, I was almost bonked and came real close to not doing it. I remember being at the base lying on the rock with Luke in asking, “Well, you gonna do it?” I was hardly listening, being too involved in a conversation with myself.
Nina and me after completing Feltoneon Physics, photo Darren Lui
“I didn’t come all the way to JTree to lay here like a lizard,” I remember thinking. There was also the mental hurdle thing. At some point I got off my ass and announced my intent to lead, and I’m glad I did. Thin crack/face climbing on small gear felt sooo good. I hung once near the start crux, but on-sighted the rest. My celebration was absent at the top. I think it was the lack of sleep. Eileen followed me up the route. I should mention that Luke provided the necessary belay and encouragement. Having someone as psyched on climbing as Luke is an asset to any leader. That lead set the tone for the following day when I would lead Heart and Sole.
When I start talking about mental hurdles there are some things to understand. After I fell 25ft and got pretty busted up I couldn’t climb a ladder comfortably. I’d get so rushed with adrenaline at times that I’d almost pass out, and in fact did once. My heightened sense of mortality, fear of going zonk, and trouble with heights have all conspired to hamper my climbing. My ability to lead has not returned easily. This is where Heart and Sole comes in.
I was infused with some new confidence from doing Poodles. I also felt about 100 times better after some sleep. When we headed to Echo Rock on Saturday I was ready to climb. Looking over my tick list I chose H&S 10a. Thinking this would be a nice warmup, I headed over to it with Nina, my new climbing partner Remember expectations? Let me just say that what I found wasn’t what I expected. The guide says “a little funky to the first bolt.” From my perspective it was more than funky, it was run-out with groundfall potential.
The first move onto a flake was easy, but the small pro behind the flake wasn’t exactly inspiring. Even if it held I would need to fall to my left to avoid the block/slab directly below. Standing there, looking up to the first good bolt, uncertainty gripped me. It looked like a mile, and it intimidated me. This is where the leader head thing gets ugly. I could forget it and go somewhere else, or I could face it. I know I can climb 10a. If that was the grade, even in Josh, what was the big deal? No big deal, except all the crap I just mentioned, and that grounder.
I didn’t hesitate too long, but I did warn Nina of all the potential outcomes. She said something like, “You could fall from there?” “Yes … I… could…” So I started up got my pro behind the flake and moved onto the face. Staring up at my first bolt like a hawk on prey, I moved up. About one good move below the bolt I began to get seriously sketched (mentally). I actually down-climbed the face moves back to the flake. That was fun [snark].
Standing on the flake Nina reminded me to breath. Oh ya. It was this moment where my fear and doubt collided with my burning desire to regain my former climbing self. In my head [I can climb this mother#&$(!r] desire won out. Back up I went, climbed to my high point, and committed to the last move. I was pretty relieved when I clipped the bolt. From there on the climbing was more fun but the grade didn’t let up. Nothing was as mentally challenging as getting to the first clip. Even the crux move after the first bolt felt easier. I had no audience other than Nina who belayed. That was actually helpful because I was able to “deal” without the distractions of the “atta boys.” Not that I wouldn’t appreciate it, but right then I needed to face the demons on my own. I know Nina saw what was going on, but she just faithfully held the rope and reminded me to breath. Thanx Nina, I couldn’t have asked for a better partner at that moment.
One other thing. After I lead this Nina got on toprope. She was pretty intimidated by it and didn’t get far. I left the rope up for others to use and went on to the next area with Eileen. When I returned there was a grin from ear-to-ear on Nina’s face as she promptly informed me that she had climbed it clean. I was pretty thrilled for her, and still am. Way to go Nina! She’s got the spirit for sure.
At the anchor of Heart and Sole, photo Darren Lui
Despite the rating, it felt like a much harder lead than doing Poodles the day before. When I made the anchor I let out “whoo hoo” that made up for the prior day. I really feel like a barrier went down that day, a lot of my confidence was restored, and fears diluted. I’m still on a bit of a high from that lead. Looking back, I don’t think the climb was that hard. It was just my leader-head that made it hard. Climbing has always been about finding new personal limits. In this case its about the restoration some. I couldn’t be happier, even if I only did a handful of routes.
Somewhat serendipitously, I later tried to climb a 10c with Eileen, Primal Scream. I had identified a 5.8 I wanted to climb, but got it wrong and ended up bailing the 10c. That’s actually a good thing. It reminded me that we can do stuff harder than we might otherwise choose to do, and even if we fail, it won’t be a disaster. Another confidence builder. All in all, I came home feeling more connected to people and more confident about climbing. Whew, talk about a road-trip.
Other Blogs about the JTree tweetup
Recently, someone that I have become acquainted with embarked on a journey. She was presented an opportunity that few would have said no to. Yet, there were apparently those that thought she shouldn’t be where she was. “Unqualified”,” ill-prepared”, and unspoken feelings infused with contempt. These critics’ words, their derisive dispatches, impugned more than her qualifications. They questioned her right to be among other climbers. I have listened to these kinds of criticisms before.
Maybe there are some that should refrain from venturing onto lofty summits or sheer rock faces. But what climber should not? It seems that the question is more about whom than what. Who is a climber? What makes someone a climber? Questions to which critics think they have answers, but provide no clues.
The critics’ hollow echoes are without thought or reflection. During my own musing I have wondered, “Is it the places we have climbed, or how often? Could it be the level of skill we attain, or the distances we travel?” No, is the only answer I find. It must be something more. Is it enough to simply call oneself a climber? Is it anyone who has ever pulled themselves up a tree, over a rock, or even up the side of a building?
It strikes me that there is something about climbing unlike any other experience. There is an ingredient that sets the “real climber” apart. In my years of being around other climbers I have experienced first hand the unique nature of this fellowship. I have seen climbers of all walks come together as brothers and sisters, wherever we gather. Yet, it is more than a common activity that ties us.
There are many that would call themselves climbers and I would not quarrel. Then again, there are some that I would. I have come to believe it is not the survival of epics or our audacious adventures. It is not the display of extraordinary skills or the scars on our hands. Simply, it is our passion.
It is passion that forms the core of our fellowship. We come together because we share a love for climbing and all things climbing. It is this love that permeates our alliances, our acquaintances, our friendships, and our common pursuit. There are those that say, “I am a climber,” but they do not embrace climbing. They are without passion. Theirs is a casual interest, and to them I would say, “You are not a climber, you are simply someone who has climbed.”
Climbing courses through the veins of a climber. It is sustenance as necessary as the air we breathe. Even in the midst of long absences, climbing remains a preoccupation of our thoughts. It’s more than memories of past events or simply plans for the next opportunity. It is who we are. No prouder words can I speak, “I am a climber.”
We walk in the paths of great climbers before us, Robert Underhill, Fred Beckey, John Bachar, John Salathe, Royal Robbins, Alex Lowe, Alison Hargreaves, Hermann Buhl, Walter Bonatti, Yvon Chouinard, John Gill, Wolfgang Güllich, Lynn Hill, Joe Brown, Reinhold Messner, Bev Johnson, Warren Harding, Layton Kor, Jules Eichorn, Charlie Fowler, John Long, Sibylle Hechtel, Walt Shipley, Dale Bard, Jim Bridwell, Sue McDevitt, Norman Clyde, Peter Croft, Todd Skinner, and the legendary Yabo.
Mention any of these names and climbers will stare into the night, images of their heroes on distant climbs, absorbed in the reverie of their own ascent. We may dream too of travel, adventure, and camaraderie. Nevertheless, it is through passion that a climber affirms the renewal of spirit, and the enthusiasm for life that being in lofty and majestic places bestows.
And still, it is more.
I have met few climbers that were not gracious, ready with encouragement, generous with possessions, and humble in spite of their accomplishments. These are the qualities of the brother and sisterhood that is climbing. What fraternity allows you sit with your heroes and speak to them as they were your best friend? Long ago, they came to understand the bond that you share.
It doesn’t matter if there is one among us who has never touched boot to stone, bruised a knee, or held a fall. They still share our passion through the stories of others and the dreams they keep. Ask them who their heroes are and the names will be familiar. They are climbers at heart and we embrace them as brothers and sisters. Their passion is no less than those that gather around campfires in distant places like the Gunks, Joshua Tree, Yosemite, Seneca, Red Rocks, Smith Rock, Boulder, Devils Tower, Moab, Zion, Whitesides, Shawagunks, Red River Gorge, Leavenworth, Eldorado Canyon, or the Grand Tetons.
The next time you find yourself sitting at a campfire sharing the beta of a climb or plotting the next. Look around you. The faces looking back are friends and acquaintances that are part of this grand fellowship. They have come many miles because their passion is the same that has brought you. These fellow climbers share the passion and love of a common pursuit. You are comrades. You are bound to them by the wealth you share and the ropes you carry.
I had forgotten about nights sitting up staring into guidebooks, imagining myself climbing notorious routes and classic lines, visualizing the moves to be made and cruxes to be conquered. I had forgotten how those guides stared back, challenging me, daring me to tempt fate. In my imaginings I climbed routes such as Romantic Warrior, the Rostrum, Spook Book, Atlantis, Separate Reality, Bachar-Yerian, Full Metal Jacket, SE Face Lotus, the Nose, Naked Edge, Yellow Spur, and Astroman. What climber has not spent a winter night dreaming of a climb while waiting for skies to clear? Many times we live those dreams too.
To those I have met and those I barely know, I sense your fervor for climbing. I feel it with every bone in my body. There is a familiarity to it. Like an old photograph long forgotten, but rediscovered. Your enthusiasm has an intensity that for me has dulled some over the years. Unnoticed, I have forgotten what it felt like to be truly in love with climbing. Your fire feeds something within me that has quietly grown hungry. It is for that, I am most grateful to be among you.
Climbing has been my passion and pursuit for a long time. To rediscover it, to embrace new friends, embark on new adventures, and share ropes on high places, is more than I could have foreseen or hoped for. I have been given a great gift. It is among you, members of this fellowship, my friends and climbing partners, that I feel renewed. My own passion is rekindled. I am again, a climber.
So maybe you don’t own anything but a pair of climbing shoes or you’re content to climb 5.6. Maybe you have never traveled beyond your local crag. Are you less a climber than I? If climbing is your passion, who can deny you the right to call yourself a climber and go where other climbers tread? Not one.
I covered the EDK or as it is more correctly called the “Overhand Bend” in Knots for Rappel, EDK or Knot. The links I provided mention some other knots that may be of interest. As I’ve said, choices should be made based on accurate information. In turn, we should use the methods and practices that we are comfortable with. I realize that there may be climbers out there that still don’t trust an EDK. All good, because they have other options.
Information about the EDK that has come to my attention. It is apparently endorsed by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA). If anyone has a source to confirm this please leave it in the comments, thanx.
Other options aren’t bad or better, just options. Each one has merits and should be considered as it applies to any given situation. For example, if I needed to tie two ropes together to haul a heavy load I won’t use the EDK. I want a stronger knot.
The most common knots I see at the crags for rappelling are the EDK and the Double Fisherman’s. Not bad choices but two entirely different knots. Other knots you might see for rappelling are the Flemish Bend or Figure Eight Bend, Ring Bend or Water Knot, a flat Fisherman’s, and an Alpine butterfly. Frankly, I’ve never seen anyone use a Ring Bend or the Flat Fisherman’s for rappel, but they are options. There are others that I have not included.
What I want to do here is give you the basic knot strengths and a view of each knot. I’m going to avoid showing how to tie any. If you’re interested in using a knot then go look it up and teach yourself how to do it. Here’s a really good link to tying knots, but the names used can confusing, Marinews.
I look at it this way. If you have a knot you like then use it, but use it ALL the time. Don’t switch back and forth between knots. Tying the same knots repeatedly for years you develop familiarity and habit that allows you to tie it while distracted, in a hurry, and you know if it’s tied correctly almost without looking at it. This is the reason I use the 8 follow-through to tie in. I’ve been doing it years and can do it with my eyes closed. You might need that skill some dark, head lamp-less night.
Let’s look at knot strengths first and a few pros/cons. I have included some common knots in addition to rappel knots.
*The primary source for knot strengths listed is found in Life on a line, A manual of modern cave rescue ropework techniques, and AHSRescue.com. Knot strengths are the % compared to tensile strength of an untied rope (100%).
Knots (bends) for joining two ropes (A bend is a knot used to join two ropes together)
- Double Fisherman’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Breaking strength 65 – 75%
- Pros/Cons: The Double Fisherman’s is a reliable, compact knot less likely to get stuck when retrieving a rappel, but somewhat harder to undo than the Figure Eight Bend.
- Ring Bend, Water or Tape knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Breaking strength 55 – 65%
- Pros/Cons: Excellent bend for joining webbing, tape or cords and holds well when wet. Not an easy knot to untie once weighted
- Alpine Butterfly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Breaking strength 60 -70%
- Pros/Cons: Easy knot to untie after being weighted. Most commonly used to create a stable loop in the middle of a rope. Can be used to secure two ropes together.
- EDK or Overhand Bend. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Breaking strength 55 – 65%
- Pros/Cons: Flat side of knot makes it less likely to snag when retrieving ropes. Somewhat weaker than other knots by 10-20%. Knot can slip under high loads. Most commonly used as rope join for rappel. Easiest to inspect.
- Figure of Eight Bend (follow through), AKA Flemish Bend . . . . . . .Breaking strength 65 – 75%
- Pros/Cons: Bulky knot more likely to snag on retrieval. Easier to untie that the overhand or fisherman’s.
- Flat-Eight – The real “Death Knot”, avoid this knot (read this if you have doubts: Death in Zion)
- Cons: That’s all I’m gonna say. Use it at your own risk.
Other Knots/Hitches
- Yosemite Mountaineering Bowline (YMB)…….. Breaking strength 65 – 70%
- Used by some climbers as tie-in knot to harness. Many known instances of Bowlines loosening and coming untied.
- Bowline on a Bight……………………………………..Breaking strength 60 %
- Various uses, creates two loops when tied. Can be used to attach to two piece anchor.
- Clove Hitch…………………………………………………..Breaking strength 65 – 75%
- Pros/Cons: Quick and easy to tie. Has multiple applications for climbers.
- (Know how to tie this knot correctly: Use and Abuse of the Clove Hitch)
- Italian hitch or Munter (HMS)……………………… Holding strength: ~8kN
- A good hitch to know for backup as a belay or rappel.
Alpine Butterfly – this knot does not include a Dbl Fisherman’s which is commonly used to create a loop with the ends. The tails here should be longer.
Double Fisherman’s
Figure-Eight Bend, AKA Flemish Bend
Yosemite Bowline
Overhand Bend
The real Death Knot (flat-Eight)
The question still gets asked, “what knot is best for tying ropes together for a rappel?” Actually, I thought it had been settled years ago. However, with the ongoing growth in climbing popularity it seems the question still needs answering. There are lots of ways to tie ropes together. Inevitably it boils down to personal preference, but why rule out knots because you might have doubts? Or worse yet, because he said, they said, quasi-expert said the knot was the best. I like to think that individuals should have all the facts, then make up their own minds.
I’m gonna be the first to say, “if your just taking my word for it your dumber than a doorknob.” I mean it. Anyone can spew any kind of garbage. Hang around crags long enough and you will eventually come home with it on your shoe It’s for that reason that I encourage other climbers, particularly beginners, to get the best info out there to make educated decisions. I know its your life. Run it anyway you want, but if you’re betting that the dufuss next route over is right you might be betting your life. Think about it, that’s all I ask.
Sorry for the preacher act, but I have a real passion for safety via complete knowledge of climbing practices and gear. Ultimately, the beta you decide to use is gonna be yours to own when you are on that wall alone. Make sure its good beta.
The reason I’m spewing here is because of all forms of climbing, rappelling gets more people injured than any other. Here’s some stats courtesy of the American Alpine Clubs Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 2005.
- The total number of accidents in the U.S. on rock between 1951 and 2003 was 4141; On Snow there were 2,289, and 2312 on ice.
- 2152 are recorded as occurring during descent, and 2735 during ascent.
- 252 are rappel failure/error. I’m cutting right to the point here.
- This includes no backup knot so rappelled off end of ropes, rope too short, improper use of descending device, inattention by belayer while lowering, and I assume knot failure.
Comparatively speaking, the numbers indicate that the total number of rappel accidents is small. Statistically rappelling is one of the most dangerous activities associated with climbing. What we don’t see here is the accidents that were caused by knot failure/error. We would need to go through some more reports to find that info. However, there are a few documented cases where knots were the identified as the cause.
- Big Cottonwood Canyon in 1995 – These climbers had used the flat-figure-eight to tie slings in webbing. The knot failed during a rappel, causing the climber to fall about 40 feet.
- 9/12/1997 Flat-overhand. Karen Turk fell 30 feet on the Guide’s Wall, Grand Teton NP
- There is some question as to whether this was a properly tied knot (see links below)
- 10/12/1994 Flat-figure-eight. Imtiaz Lahlji fell 60 feet and died at Seneca Rocks
- * all these incidents are found on Tom Moyer’s testing page
- * all these incidents are found on Tom Moyer’s testing page
I refer to this page because they did some nice testing on knots. I recommend reading the whole thing. The initial question was about knots for rappelling, and the tests are very relevant.
Here is the author’s summary in regards to rappel:
I have personally used the flat-overhand on some rappels where I thought pulling the ropes across an edge might cause problems. Otherwise, I use a figure-eight follow-through knot with grapevine safeties. Most of the people I know use the flat-overhand, including Chris Harmston, who co-wrote the high-strength cord paper with me. I don’t believe the flat-overhand will ever fail under body weight if it is tied well.
The flat-overhand is clearly better than the flat-figure-eight. The flat-eight is represented three-to-one in the accidents despite (to the best of my knowledge) many more climbers using the overhand. The flat-eight also starts flipping at a lower load (750 lbs vs 1400 lbs for well-tied, 110 lbs vs 200 lbs for badly tied) than the overhand, and it eats two to three times as much tail in each flip.
He mentions three knots the flat-eight, figure-eight follow-through, and a flat-overhand. If you’re not sure what flat means just imagine taking both ends of the ropes side-by-side, same direction, and you tie an eight or an overhand. The flat comes from the fact that when the ropes are under tension the knots have a “flat side”. The flat-eight is about the worst, and I never use it for anything. I do use the flat-overhand almost exclusively for rappels. If you haven’t figured it out yet the flat-overhand is also known as the EDK or European death knot. This is a bit misleading since its a very good knot for rappels. If you go to the Splitter Gear link below you’ll see we are in absolute disagreement. They state, “It is possible to use the “EDK” safely, but the risks far outweigh the benefits.” They even go so far as to suggest it will “send you to your grave.” A misrepresentation at the least. Here are the facts about the EDK.
In 2000, Burton Moomaw, an AMGA Certified Rock Instructor, pull tested the flat overhand tied in two single dynamic lines. He found that the knot inverted at 1400 pounds, then did nothing further as it was subjected to higher loads. (Source: direct communication) [quote source: Climbing myth busters]
It will flip, at 1400 pounds. Anyone weigh that much? The benefits of the EDK are its low profile against the rock, easy to tie and untie. The concerns are the knot’s ability to flip, and when it does the tails get shorter. If it could flip enough times it comes off the rope. Also the strength of the knot concerns some.
The Double Fisherman’s and Ring Bend had similar strength results
• The Euro Death Knot was the weakest: ~20-30% less than the Double Fisherman’s and Ring Bend.
• The Euro Death Knot slipped a bit before failure at ~4000 lbf with the 10.2 and ~2000 lbf with the 8.1 in the system. [see Black Diamond link below]
Most testing shows the knot may flip once but is then stable. I usually tie long enough tails that I don’t worry about it. Since I only use it for body weight (rappels) its strength isn’t an issue. Ultimately most tests show that some serious loads need to be applied to the knot to get it to fail in any mode. The most important aspect of any knot is tying it cleanly. Clean knots are easy to inspect and it insures their integrity. The second important aspect is pulling the knot tight after you tie it! When we talk about knots flipping not tying them tight is a big sin. The EDK and Eight will flip a lot easier if you don’t tighten them well. The numbers above are for knots tied correctly.
I’m comfortable with my choices because I’ve made some informed decisions based on the literature and my own experiences. I encourage you to look at everything here and do some more research. In the end, you should decide what you’re comfortable with based on good info.
Note: One last thing about the EDK. It has come to my attention that the EDK is apparently endorsed and recommended by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA). [Source: Animated Knots by Grogg ]
Incidentally, Eldelrid did some testing of the EDK and concluded, “all of the three knots with ropes of different and of identical diameter are safe up to a load of around 1500 daN” (1500 daN = 3372 lbs). [Source: Edelrid]
Here are a couple more good links to keep you thinking about rappel knots.
Splitter Climbing Gear: Rappel knots tested and reviewed
Black Diamond QC Lab: What is the strongest rappel knot?
The Climbing Mythbusters: Myth 5: The Euro Death Knot can roll during a rappel
A friend of mine asked me how to tie an EDK properly. One of the reasons I use it is because it is easy to tie. If I’m rappelling in a storm or in a hurry, I want easy! Take both ends and simultaneously tie an overhand knot. Make the knot clean looking and leave 12″ tails. Then preload the knot by pulling on it good and hard. I’ll get a pic of a good one up tomorrow after I go climbing
EDK examples -
Correct
Incorrect – tails too short
Incorrect – poorly dressed
Flat-Eight, bad joo-joo
I like to think about climbing, a lot. I must, I do it daily whether I’m climbing or not. On the other hand I have never taken many photos of my climbing adventures and written only a few trip reports. It’s somewhat unique that this is the second trip report that I have posted here. There are a couple reasons for this. One, I want to make an effort to remember all the great people I have climbed with and the places we have been. Memories fade despite our best efforts. Only way to keep it fresh is to put it down somewhere for future reference.
Second, I tend to reflect on my experiences. Some trips feel really good and no questions linger. Other times you’re left wondering why the trip felt slightly out of place or why you weren’t “in the zone” on some climbs. Kinda like a guitar that is almost in tune. I was left with that feeling following this recent trip. I never attribute any of my feelings or perceptions to the actions of others. Whatever the world feels like is all me, that I know. I’m writing about my colors of perception. Those perceptions are the result of the lens through which I view things, nothing else. I guess that’s a disclaimer of sorts. Bottom line, I love all you guys.
Our trip was the result of conversations about a Jtree tweetup. During those conversations @nsmonkeygirl said she had a campsite in Yosemite all lined up but no one to occupy it. Didn’t take long to find five willing souls to head to the valley and help her out.
Seems everyone arrived on Friday except me. I got there around 9AM Saturday and camp already looked pretty lived in. Breakfast activities were under way and few introductions were necessary. I had met and climbed with @nsmonkeygirl and @katiebeth. I had yet to meet @sudarkoff, @lizzy_t, and @lstefurak. You’ll notice that I use the twitter user names. This was all possible because we all met through twitter. Really, a great way to meet others with similar interests. May be just me, but it always feels a little odd going to a party where you don’t know anyone. At least that wasn’t the case here. We all had plenty of tweets between us to get a feel for each other. I find it really interesting when you put a face to the tweets. It demonstrates just how limited electronic communication can be. Meeting people fer real is far more satisfying and interesting
Luke and Lizzy are southern California sun bunnies for the most part. Lizzy recently relocated to the Bay Area to attend Stanford. Seems she picked the right field for a climber, Geology. George and Nina are also Bay Area residents, and Katie came up from Fresno. Me, I’m a “mid” California resident, more mountain than valley. Yosemite isn’t that far so I had the luxury of sleeping in on Saturday. Anyway, it wasn’t long before everyone was together and wondering where to go. I think it was Luke that suggested we head to Pat and Jack Pinnacle. I’ll have to take him at his word that he isn’t a “valley rat”. I will say his instincts were good and P&J Pinnacle was a great idea. I hadn’t been there in years, and only once before.
I was pretty psyched to climb. I set my sights on Knob Job a nice 10b crack. It looked pretty straight forward with good gear. KB was gonna belay while I led. We had climbed After Six together some months before. Her first multi-pitch trad climb I might add. She’s a quick study and climbs in the gym regularly, so I felt pretty good about tackling Knob Job with her. There was a day when climbing it would have been pleasant outing and not a challenge. Many reasons for the change. The point is to be successful climbing close to your limit requires certain things to be in place. I found out that not all things were for me.
Knob Job runs vertically up a series of parallel cracks. A couple of switches gets you through the pitch. The crux is about 2/3rds the way up. “The crux can be done three ways: insecure and delicate climbing in the flared finger crack, the usual technique of liebacking the (hard to spot) right crack, or perhaps the easiest way, by transferring entirely into the right crack and cranking to the jugs” (courtesy of Supertopo). I climbed most of it without incident, ran out sections I could, and set decent pro when I needed it. It was the crux bit to the big jugs that gave me fits. In reflecting on the trouble I had there, I realize a number of factors at work.
I was a little surprised that I was running out of gas near the top. I have been bouldering on a regular basis all summer. The lesson seems to be all that short stuff doesn’t prepare you for a full pitch of crack. I have done very few long routes in recent years and it showed. On a personal note, I am tired of climbing well below what I know I’m capable of, and had previously been. This little climb proved to be a real wakeup call. Its gonna motivate me to get off my butt and do something about it. I also realized something else. In other posts I have touched on the subject of leading and fear. I learned something about comfort, confidence, and committing as it relates to conditions around you, and how those things impact your performance.
The crux section had a good crack out right, slightly hidden from view. I made several attempts to climb this section straight up the thin bottoming tips crack without use of the crack to my right. I didn’t see it. I was already slightly burned, and my failed attempts made it worse. By the time I realized I had a bomber crack to work with my arms were really pumped. It also required a high-step to a knob. That’s a challenge for me anyway since my back was fused. So there I was, decent pro, flamed arms, and doubt. Doubt, fear, call it what you want. What I needed right then and there was a serious commitment to make the move. You know how it is. Climbing requires all-or-nothing commitment at certain times to make difficult moves. Often we blow ourselves away when we make the most improbable moves because we commit fully.
This wasn’t really a case of mind blowing. I just needed to go for it to make the move. It started with the pro. I didn’t have exactly what I wanted, but I had two pieces. Still there were reservations. Second, I had a belayer that I had climbed with just once. Fear is an irrational thing at times, but insecurities were creeping. Factors are additive and it affected my level of committment. I was limited mentally as much as physically. The point about belayers that I would like to make is this; familiarity. I have old partners that I climbed with for years, and you get to a point where having them hold your rope is as comforting as clipping a 1/2in bolt. You never second guess it. A lack of familiarity is one more small thing, not immediately apparent, that impairs committment.
Belayers are part of the protection chain. Many of us can be hesitant to fall on good bolts. It could take many falls to become comfortable that these things will protect us. Why should our belayers be any different? This is a revelation to me because I’ve had the luxury of climbing with the same people for years. The gear was an issue but I’ve dealt with crappy gear before. In retrospect, it was a good thing that I fell about six times. It gave me an opportunity to develop comfort and trust with my relatively new partner. She caught me every time I had no reasonable fear that I would be dropped to my death. Like I said, some of this can be irrational.
It was also my responsibility to make sure my signals were clear and understood. I took it for granted (because I always could) that yelling “Take” would get a certain reaction as “Falling” would get something else. When it got difficult I lapsed into a kind of auto-mode. I couldn’t reasonably expect anyone to belay me in the manner that I had been used to with partners of 10 years, no way. Nor is it reasonable to think I would be as comfortable. It just added to my lack of committing to the move. So I flailed, badly. It got to a point where I saw Luke coming up and asked if he wanted to finish the pitch. I’m glad now that he was busy climbing something else.
Something inside got really pissed off at that moment. I could climb this stupid thing. I’d done routes grades harder in the past. Now I’m one move from the money jugs and I wanted to bail? That’s what it takes sometimes. I heard a quote that I’m gonna keep close from now on. I heard it in an interview from Peter Croft “you can have an epic fail or a mediocre success”. It’s a little out of context here, but letting Luke finish it would have been less than mediocre. So I went for epic fail. Gear pulls, belayer drops me, screw fear and doubt just go for it. It was all irrati0nal anyway.
Then I did the move. Fully flamed out, barely able to pull the money jugs down, but I did it because I committed fully. Kinda anti-climatic in a way. KB followed, climbed and cleaned the pitch like a pro. She even got the nut out that I fell on six times. Not easy as it sounds. We rapped and talked briefly at the bottom about signals, but I think I left some details out. I hope my experience didn’t impact hers. It doesn’t matter if your climbing with experienced climbers or not. New partners need to sit down and go over all the details before a climb. Taking things for granted gets folks hurt. Its just one little factor that may have consequences when other factors are added. It may also help with the familiarity issue.
That’s enough of my postmortem reflections. The rest of the day was spent around the base. Everyone took a shot at TR’ing a 12a that Luke led with style. Gotta say, that dude can climb. I heard he just did Free Blast twice in the same weekend. That’s funny because I remember him saying he was strong, but might not be ready for those long routes. Nice try luke, I didn’t buy it for a minute. I’m not sure that attempting something that far above one’s current abilities is very useful, but it is fun to try. It also turned out that I was on the cusp of getting sick, which I have been all week. As we were standing around my energy levels went south. I just figured it was sleep or stress. Possibly another factor in my flame out on Knob Job (ya that’s it).
All in all it was great to build on new friendships and spend time getting to know everyone. We headed back to camp and Lizzy and Luke generously made some delicious curry dinner for everyone. Thanx guys, you’re hired We sat around the campfire, played cards, had some music, talked and got some snow later that night. The snow was unanticipated (by me at least). I scoffed at the Wx report. My experience says they’re usually off when calling for 30% chance of anything. Okay, one for the Wx man.
There were plans to climb Sunday, but that was shelved when we woke up to snow. It was actually kinda nice. As I was sharing a cup of coffee with KB that morning things felt quite peaceful. It was kinda cold so maybe the coffee just tasted better. I hope we do it again next year. There is the JTree tweetup coming and it looks like about 15 – 20 folks are signed on. That should be a blast. Now I just gotta figure out how I can make it. If I do make it, I hope KB will be there. If she’s belaying me I know I can commit, assuming all my other doubts are in check. On second thought, it may be time for me to belay her. Yes?
I still don’t take many pics, but I’m working on it. See if you can guess who the skydiver is in the photo.
See ya’ll next year
I came across this great little video. It demonstrates a technique they call “Clip-Drop Technique”. The goal of the technique is to reduce the fear of lead falls. I’d agree with those that suggest it is this fear that keeps many a good climber leading well below their potential. I speak from personal experience. It goes nicely with two posts that I previously put up Taking the Lead and Top Roping and Training.
I have used a similar idea in the outdoor environment. The video demonstrates the technique in a gym. I’d suggest it if you haven’t taken intentional falls before. A gym is about as predictable an environment as climbers get. You might also try it outside on a well bolted sport route. By well bolted I mean one that has good bolts. Personally, I have set pro (cams, nuts, etc.) and taken falls to test placements, and to address my own doubts.
Once you get more comfortable that a fall on lead isn’t going to end in tragedy you’ll be free to focus on the climbing. One caveat, falls can be dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing. Make sure you get good advice on falling technique. Here’s the link -
Fear of Falling – clip-drop technique from SteepMedia on Vimeo.
The topic of climbing rubber is a giant can of worms. Not the kind you go fishing with either. This is the kind where if you catch anything you consider yourself lucky. All kidding aside, my journey into the realm of climbing rubber has been heavily laden with lack of specific information, too much or irrelevant information. As of this writing I have yet to receive a reply to questions I sent to several manufacturers. What I have found is highly technical, and in regards to rubber specifically developed for climbing, there isn’t much.
If I have you scratching your head then we have something in common. Let’s start with my response to a fellow climber and twitterer @benpope. He asked the simplest of questions,
you’re into rubber, right? any tips of stealth C4, XS Grip, or Onyx?
My reply wasn’t as informative as I’m sure he would have liked-
The answer to rubber is a long one. I’m still waiting to hear back from Stealth on sum stuff. You’ll get good answers if you ask the right questions. The best question is, “How do you intend to use it?” or “What kind of climbing are you doing”, and “How’s your footwork”
The questions we ask, how we ask them, and the responses we get are based on one thing. Our understanding of what the hell it is we’re talking about. I’m not gonna pretend. Before I started poking around I couldn’t tell you squat about rubber. I could tell you which rubber I liked, but the terms I used to describe it were inaccurate and confusing. This seems true for most climbers. For example, I have come to loathe the frequently invoked term “sticky”. I’m throwing it out unless some genius can tell me exactly which rubber property it applies to. Its not very useful if we’re trying to discuss rubber accurately. It’s because the term inadvertently gets used to describe any number of unique properties like adhesion, or static friction, or viscoelasticity. The term only connotes some gross generalizations in casual conversation. If you’re intent on using the term “sticky” limit its use to conversations about tree sap, duct tape or syrup.
I realize technical language is cause for some to be turned off. Unfortunately its pretty hard to avoid if we want to have a meaningful discussion about rubber. I’ll try to keep the lingo as simple and to the point as possible. Let’s start with some terms as a basis of discussion. I’m introducing these now in order to get you thinking about rubber in a more critical way. Please note that this is not a comprehensive list, just terms that I have found relevant.
- Hardness – Semi-self explanatory. This is the most commonly tested property in rubber manufacture
- Stretch (Tensile stress-strain) - The ability of rubber to stretch several times its original length up to the point it breaks. Second most common test during manufacture.
- Adhesion - This is the property that makes rubber feel tacky when touched. May also be described as sticky.
- Coefficient of Friction (CoF) – This friction “rating” which has to be measured experimentally. Not really that important for this discussion. Just know that climbing rubbers have a high CoF.
- Static friction – Friction when your shoe rubber is pasted to the rock.
- Dynamic friction – Friction when your shoe rubber is sliding on the rock.
- Viscoelasticity – The property of viscous and elastic characteristics. Viscosity is important when we talk about Interlock , which is the extent to which rubber deforms or “flows” into minuscule pores and around protrusions in the rock. Elasticity is the rubbers ability to return to its original shape after being deformed (e.g. rubber band).
- Interlock – Just what the note above says, rubbers ability to conform to the rock surface, and the resulting friction. For example, Legos have great interlock
Got those in your head? Okay, let’s go back to that original tweet that @benpope sent me. What I was trying to convey was the idea that our intended use, and skills to match, are as important as any rubber. Consider some of the great climbers from prior decades such as Peter Croft, John Bachar, Wolfgang Güllich, Royal Robbins, or John Gill. These guys kicked ass on any rock. Some great climbers of the past have done 10s and 11s wearing boots and tennis shoes. The assumption we should be able to make is that we have better rubber today than they did, right? It certainly appears that their abilities weren’t hampered much for lack of the super rubber we have today. We can conclude two things 1) that rubber improvements are a bunch of meaningless hype, and somebody is being sold a boat load of bull, or 2) the super-duper rubbers of today aren’t as important as our climbing skills.
I’m going to go way out on a limb and suggest that your climbing skills are 95% of the performance equation and rubber 1%. The rest is various other factors like the color of your shorts or the size of your chalk bag. If you climb anything less than 5.10, rubber is a non-factor when we’re talking about performance. Your just not going to push the rubber hard enough for subtle differences to be apparent. I’m also implying that the differences between rubber brands is small, but not insignificant under the right conditions.
Most (all) new climbers will improve greatly from refining their skills. It doesn’t matter that they bought the bargain brand shoe with Wal-Mart rubber. Most neophytes foot work is probably sloppy and super-duper rubber won’t compensate for it. In fact, really crappy rubber may teach better footwork because it doesn’t hold the rock as well. As your climbing skills develop toward 5.10+ you are going to smear harder, edge on dimes, or toe little nubbins, heel hook, or grab with toes. Here the rubber you have may exhibit noticeable performance differences.
With all that said, I am hoping to add more substantial information in future posts. One of the questions I am asking manufacturers is how they correlate the subjective descriptions they get from testers to material properties of rubber. Each of the terms above represents some aspect of the performance and feel you get from your climbing rubber. They need to know what to tweak to make rubber climb better. The other thing I am asking is about the tests they perform and what properties they find most important to test. I hope that these questions and others will be answered in the very near future.
In part II of this blog I’m going to be talking to resolers. They are on the front line and can hopefully provide information from their perspective. Certainly, working with the stuff as intimately as they do would produce some insights. I hope to have that next part up soon. In the meantime, think about how you use rubber. Ask yourself what it is about the performance (in specific terms) you like and don’t.
One last thought. Shoes are the interface between you and your rubber. Every time the topic of climbing rubber comes up, it inevitably ends up being about shoes. Shoes incorporate rubber, but they are two distinctly different components. Footwork, fit, shape, materials, and lasts are a few factors that affect the “feel” and function of your rubber against rock. Shoes allow rubber to become an integrated extension of your feet. This relation produces an inherent difficulty discussing shoe and rubber independently. However, this is an attempt to do just that, talk about the performance of rubber where it meets the rock, nothing else.
Just added another trick to Trad tips and tricks (Click here or link right).
Recently, there was a blog that offered advice on getting to higher levels of climbing. Some of the suggestions the author offered were good ones. However, I disagreed with him on the usefulness of top-roping in the pursuit of harder grades. Not everybody learns at the same rate or benefits from the same prescription. In that context, I disagreed with one suggestion. I do not believe that top-roping should be avoided. It is a valuable tool that any climber can use to their advantage. I’m not criticizing the climber, just in disagreement. I’m sure that the suggestions work for the author. I submitted a comment to that effect which was, well, not posted. That’s fine. There was probably no good reason for me to challenge the suggestion on his blog. Hell, that’s why I started this one. All that aside, I think he made some suggestions worth reading.
Top-roping (TR) has value. I don’t know one climber that has not TR’ed his way to a higher grade. There are several reasons why TRs are a great tool. When you were just a neophyte climber, what was the first thing you did the first time you climbed? I’m guessing that 99.99% of you answered top-roped. For the sake of argument I’m not including bouldering-only climbers. Everyone else, in the gym or outside, tied into a TR. The reason you did so was simple. It was the safest way for you to experience climbing. You (we) didn’t have technique, strength, knowledge, or the mind-set to climb confidently, much less lead. It allowed you to make a zillion mistakes while your inchoate skills developed.
TR’ing should be the safest form of climbing. That is, unless you’re bad with anchors or are engaging in some questionable belay practices. Given the safety of a TR we are free to try absolutely anything we want with no penalties or fear. We can attempt the most outrageous moves or attempt routes way over our heads (literally). The burdensome thoughts of falling are removed for the most part. I say mostly because I know how it is for beginning climbers to learn to trust gear completely. The point here is a TR gives you the latitude to develop the style and techniques that work for you. No constraints. It doesn’t matter if you are a neophyte or not. Attempting to get to higher grades still requires the development of skills you don’t currently have.
Once free of “fall-anxiety” your focus can be directed to balance, body position, hand and foot techniques, etc. The real beauty of TR’ing is when you blow it. Your still right there and in position to try something else, or work the move you want. You may not get those second, third, and fourth chances on lead. More likely you’ll burn yourself out before too long. This isn’t really a problem if your goal is to get the move on lead. Its likely that the route is pretty close to your demonstrated skill level, not way beyond it. You may not stand a chance of working it out on lead if it’s too far beyond you.
Something needs to be pointed out here. We learn new skills incrementally. TR’ing allows us to develop our climbing skills and practice them to mastery. TR’ing a climb that is several grades harder than you can climb can be productive. Climbing routes too hard for us has the benefit of highlighting our weaknesses. However, imagine the results if on that first day you attempted to climb 5.11 or 5.12. Do you think you would have learned anything flailing just inches off the ground, or gotten any stronger? Same thing applies if your climbing 5.10 trying to get to 5.12. Going from 5.6 to 5.8 isn’t a lot different than going from 5.10 to 5.12. You’re still developing technique and strength. Taking too big a step will have minimal benefit.
I do TR stuff that is beyond my ability. Leading way beyond your ability is setup for frustration or injury. The risk of injury is increased significantly when your leading stuff that is many grades too hard. First, there is the chance that your going to pull some muscle or tendon that wasn’t ready for the sudden increase in stress. It’s a good idea to do some climbing specific training if you are intent on climbing a lot harder. It’ll help reduce potential, but watch out for overuse injuries. Those can creep up on you. TR’ing allows you to control your training to a degree that leading can’t. Heather Sagar wrote a great book on training a few years back, Climbing Your Best: Training to Maximize Your Performance. In her book she points to three things that contribute to those “plateaus” we all experience at some point. They are undertraining, overtraining, and training the wrong thing. I really recommend that anyone interested in improving their climbing read the book and use it as a guide. Again, working routes on TR allows you to control your training.
Second, the more times you fall the better the chance you’ll be bit. I’m not saying never fall, or that all falling is bad. I’m saying that any fall has the potential to hurt you. Leading a route that you know you will result in a fall (or many falls) is something that shouldn’t be taken lightly. Fingers get caught in cracks, tendons pull, ropes catch legs, rocks fall off, and bodies bounce off walls, it all adds up. Over a long and illustrious career you will already have plenty of opportunity to hurt yourself on lead. Let me refer to another great book, Flash Training by Eric Horst. He does make the suggestion that climbing much harder grades is a good idea. He also notes that “safe” routes should be attempted. He mentions it in passing, but I think the point is clear. If you are going to attempt routes several grades harder than you currently lead pick’em carefully to reduce risk. Or better yet, TR them first to find out what the risks are.
I do want to say something about learning lead climbing. At some point you need to lead. Leading is as much about your “head” as it is about you physical ability. If you want to lead well, then you need to work toward developing a leaders mentality. Its something that can only come from experience. Leading requires skills that aren’t developed on TR. You shouldn’t ignore practicing leading anymore than you should avoid TR’ing. Balance your climbing day between working hard routes on TR to develop technique and strength, and leading to get your head and other skills trained. All or nothing thinking can paint you into a “training corner”. Why throw out any of the tools at your disposal?
It may be that you have no interest in climbing harder or leading. That’s cool, to each his own. Climbing should be fun whatever you do. However, if you do find yourself on a “plateau”, it’s time to step back and look at your routine. Your are either doing too much of one thing or not enough of another. You may be TR’ing too much or leading stuff that returns no benefit. It goes both ways, so don’t dismiss any of your options.
I’m posting this here because its too important to ignore. Healthcare reform is essential to all of us. Once again the average American is the target of our wonderful free (manipulated) market. We will be screwed hard by corporate lobbies and the spineless members of congress. Corporate insurance lobbies want to rape you. You have two choices, remain blissfully ignorant while being raped, or take a stand against it. If you let it happen you won’t be able to afford medical coverage to have a doctor repair the damage.
Get involved!
